Feb. 15 - 16, 2014
What a wonderful country.
We flew into Penang, Malaysia (pop. 704 k, 45 mi. long) where Sarah and
Yeang picked us up. Of course we
expected the heat, but the high mountains were a surprise and the amazing
amount of building is incredible. They
are worried that a housing and commercial building bubble will occur. They drove us to lunch first at a wonderful
restaurant in the mall.
Then to Ch'ng's house (pix).
We've been eating at the hawker stalls that Lye Pheng and
Seng, (Yeang's parents) know well throughout the area as well as wonderful
bakeries and restaurants. The food is
some of the best, and Penang is listed as a food destination by Lonely
Planet. I cannot pronounce most of the
names of the dishes but plan to get a cookbook to try and make some of the
recipes. Many are sweet which I love. At the open market there is dragon fruit, dhurian,
2 kinds of mango, palmelo, purple taro, vegetables and fruit I cannot name, fish
stalls with only the weight listed for the whole fish since everyone recognizes
fish, huge sides of beef, whole plucked chickens to show how fresh and to allow
customers to name their own cut. We're
surrounded with smells and busyness. We
watch the preparations for the food in large hot woks and curbside washing of
the dishes.
White Coffee is
their signature coffee. The waiter puts
sugar in the bottom, adds strong thick coffee poured on top, and blends in
milk. You can control the sweetness by
how much you stir the coffee. I loved
it. No doubt we are gaining weight as
much of the activity is around meals.
Our next day we
visited their Buddhist temple to pay respects to Seng's (Yeang's father)
brother who died about 100 days ago. His
widow was there and children. Each
ancestor can purchase a scroll that is left in the temple on the wall. Incense is burned as homage to the
spirit. Everywhere there are small
temples or places to burn incense and candles for the spirits. Fruit is left on
the tables.
Sean, Lye Pheng's
brother, then guided us around the World Heritage Site of the Chinese and
Indian sides of Chullia road Area 1. We
walked to the jetties where there are homes on the piers and fishing or small
motor boats used as ferries for the bigger boats in the harbor.
The old architecture
is trying to be preserved but it is quite difficult with the deterioration that
occurs in tropical climates. He showed
us many of the trades and skills that are still performed by generations of
Chinese like the cutting of signs to hang with Chinese letters or forging
anchors, or art in the galleries. Restaurants
are everywhere with inexpensive food.
With the heat and inexpensive food available few people eat at home.
Yeang and Sarah drove us up the west side of the island to
Ferelinggi. We visited the butterfly
farm where they have a huge butterfly area but also raise butterflies,
chrysalises, and cocoons as another profit center. They sort and hang them before they change
into butterflies. We ate lunch at a Muslim
town near a mosque that was having Friday service, and we listened to the minaret
blaring out Arabic words over the whole town.
A variety of colorfully dressed muslims rode by on bicycles to the
mosque.
We watched the hand made batik clothes process at a batik
store. Amazingly simple but requires
great skill with special tools, wax then colors hand painted on the fabric - silk and cotton.
Traffic is thick in the city and out of the city on the
mountain roads that are dramatically twisty-turny.
The Ch'ng parties
are going to be Saturday night and Sunday night. The pink and white pointed tent went up on
the side lawn. Most members of the
family are flying in or live here. We
are learning all the family names. One
night when 14 members came over for desert I had to go up to bed early and Drew
stayed up. I was sad I hadn't met
everyone until I came down the next morning and heard about all the women
surrounding (flirting) with Drew, charmer that he is. We are having such a good
time. Temperatures are about 90 every
day, little breeze and instead of wind chill they have heat feel of 105
degrees. It's hot.
Feb. 16 the large family and friend dinner the night before the tea ceremony was at the Chinese Cultural Center.
Feb. 17 the day of the tea ceremony. Everyone wears red. Yeang's parents are honored first and the people of his family. Then us as Sarah's parent. We sit and they serve us tea simply saying here is your tea. We honor them with red envelopes with a little money and everyone who is in the tea ceremony gives them jewelry that they put on Sarah or envelopes. Yeang wore a red brocade mandarin collared shirt as did all the men. And he also had a cap with long Chinese braids. The party was catered with all the best Chinese food again.
Feb. 18
Sean, Lye Peng's brother took us around to the Botanical
Gardens and two of the large temples, lying down Buddha and standing
Buddha. We ate at lunch at an Indian
restaurant drinking delicious iced sweet lime tea.
When we came home we found Vivien, Lye Pheng's sister, and others
preparing an amazing dinner, abalone, spareribs, fish, duck pate, Chinese
sausage, vegetables, and more. Definitely we will be making a trip to Chinatown in Boston when I get home now that I sort of know what to buy.
Feb 19: Wednesday our last day here -- we tried to
pack up including some of Sarah and Yeang's gifts to bring back since they are
on their scuba diving honeymoon. We went
to lunch and had pink, blue, green, orange, yellow foods and drinks. Can't even tell you the names of the
delicious cakes, meat pies, and vegetables.
More later.
Feb. 20 In Weihiki Island, New Zealand with our friends Hilary and Will Jandl. Slept until 2 in the afternoon after a 15 hour trip from Singapore to Sydney to Auckland. In the Singapore airport we visited a butterfly garden where they dumped out a variety of chrysalises that were sent from the Butterfly Farm we visited in Penang! They reglue the cocoons or chrysalis to metal bars and hang them in a netted cage until they hatch. The butterflies go all over the screened garden. We also visited the cactus garden with a nice bar. It was a nice 6 hour stopover.
In Weihiki we took a walk along the beach, swam, body surfed, and had a nice dinner - Hilary is an excellent cook.
Feb. 23 - down to the South Island to Queenstown near Milford Sound. Again a wonderful place to stay - Queenstown Park Boutique Hotel. Climbed up Queenstown hill gaining a 360 degree view of all the mountain scenery. These are huge new spiked mountain - rugged and rocky. The next day we flew to Milford Sound, a fjord in a large national park. Lots and lots of pictures from the plane and boat. Hundreds of waterfalls. Then we were flown to Glenorky to take a speed boat ride up the Dart River along a valley that again is out of a movie set. Much of Lord of the Rings, Hobbit land, and other movies with stunning scenery are filmed in this area. We took a walk in the woods guided to a tree where 10 of us got inside a still living hollowed out tree.
Feb. 27 flew back to Auckland, picked up a rental car and drove up to the Bay of Islands in the North Island, took a 2 minute ferry across to Russell, New Zealand to stay at a BnB Onarunu Harding House. This Victorian house was moved 185 Km and restored here in this quaint town. Ate a great meal at the Wharf on the waterfront overlooking Paihia where they give you a very hot stone with a steak that Drew cooked himself exactly the amount he wanted it cooked. Of course Drew likes it super rare - so another perfect meal accompanied by New Zealand sweet potato mash and horseradish. I had tempura calamari and salad. The next day we walked the beautiful beach, had beach side crepes and experienced a beach natural.
Today we ferried over to the place where the English hoodwinked the indigenous tribes into signing a treaty in 1840 to begin the country of New Zealand. The tribal show was fun and the sticking out of the tongue in a show of ugly force (they were originally canibals) was well done. Throughout the country there are tribal names and Maori words like our Native American names. As we eat out each night Drew named this part of our trip "traveling on $700 a day."
Tomorrow, March 1, we go back to Weihiki. This writing is the quick one so I have the itinerary loaded down. I'll go back and edit with pix and better writing I hope. I haven't described the flowers and birds and quiet and wind and beach sand and hill walks and mountain tops and weather and views. Down under at 35 degrees south the temperature is 70. At 45 degrees south it was about 60. It is a great celebration of our 10th year together. How lucky we are.